As we approach the 100th year anniversary of the end Great War in 1918, a lot of retrospective thinking, review and discussion has been taking place.

One area of discussion is the interruption of the uniforms, equipment, regulations and distinctions of the New Zealand military forces. One of these distinctions is the peaked felt hat, commonly called the lemon squeezer. When and how did it begin? How did it evolve? Did New Zealand invent the peaked felt hat? And which was the first unit to officially wear the peaked felt hat?

Background

The felt hat has been around for many years, both as civilian and as military head wear. The crown can have a number of different designs. Forms range from plain domed shaped to creased fore and aft, peaked with four dents (this includes the two variations of dent forward or crease forward) and every crease and design in between.The term ‘lemon squeezer’ is a slang nickname invented by the public. The New Zealand Military Forces have never officially used the term ‘lemon squeezer’. For the military, it is simply a felt hat with a peaked crown. In New Zealand, the peaked felt hat was commonly referred to by observers of the time as the ‘Baden Powell hat’.

In the 1800s the style of hat with four dents was worn to some extent in North America by so-called “cowboys,” and at the turn of the century was adopted by the Canadian North West Mounted police, the South African Armed Constabulary while similar hats were even in use by Boer soldiers.

The U.S. Army also adopted its own hat that was similar shape after the Spanish-American War. Known as the “Montana Peaked Cap” or “Campaign Hat” its use was short lived however, and was widely replaced by the side cap, known in America as the “overseas cap.” The Campaign Hat today is used exclusively by drill instructors in the U.S. Army and United States Marines Corps.

In New Zealand, the Legion of Frontiersmen and the scout movement all adopted the peaked felt hat.The peaked felt hat with 4 dents was a functional, practical, stylish and a popular type of head dress that was a fashion statement in its own right that had an aura of dash and adventure about it.

In December 1909, the New Zealand Defence act was passed by parliament. This saw the introduction of the country wide, government run, Territorial Force system to replace the locally run volunteer militia units.

Pre-1910

In New Zealand,the felt hat has been around for just as long as it has overseas. Different designs of felt hat crowns can be seen in period photos during the New Zealand wars. In New Zealand, the felt hat has a strong mounted tradition. During the late 1800’s the felt hat was worn by some militia units but it was in 1891[1] that the whole of the mounted rifles adopted the felt hat to replace the helmet (this hat was ‘of the pattern worn by the Victorian Mounted Infantry’). The felt hat was worn with the crown creased fore and aft and the brim turned up at one side.The General Regulations of the Defence Forces of New Zealand 1906[2] introduced a khaki coloured hat made

from thick felt that was to be worn by all branches of the New Zealand Defence Forces except Officers of the Cadet Companies. These regulations indicated that hooks are to be provided for the brim but no description is given as to how the crown is to be creased.

A major influence in the crown design came about when the New Zealanders saw the benefit of the style of hats worn by the Canadian troops[1] serving in South Africa during the Boer war of 1899-1902. Some New Zealand troopers altered the standard fore and aft style to a peaked crown and wore the brim flat all the way around. These alterations made the perfect campaign hat but were ad hock, none regulation and not uniform within units.

During the Volunteer period of 1902 to 1910 the felt hat made an appearance as a stylish and practical form of headwear in New Zealand. The Legion of Frontiersmen wore the peaked felt hat as a unit distinction. This mounted unit was raised mainly from South African war veterans. They were a patriotic and popular unit of some regard and social standing; as such their appearance, would have had an influence on the popular military fashions of the time. Individual members of the Volunteers also wore the peaked felt hat, but it was not regulation, and neither widespread and or uniform within units.

Post 1910

The pre-war Territorial period and the introduction of a uniform system across the country is when the first mention and official acceptance of the peaked felt hat in the New Zealand Military Forces is recorded.The dress regulations of 1912 mention a Baden Powell hat.

New Zealand Military Forces. Dress Regulations, 1912

Part VI-Senior Cadets

Hat

(3) Felt, drab-mixture colour, to be looped up to badge (lion’s head or school or company badge) on the left side. Units wearing the Boy Scout (B.P.) hat will provide their own hats. The allowance for same will in no case exceed the contract price for Cadet hats, either as regards first cost or future maintenance.

This regulation did not preclude the senior cadets from wearing a Baden Powell hat if they wished. The regulation senior cadet hat of the time was felt with the crown dented fore and aft and with the left brim turned up. The cadet units had to organize their own supply so long as it didn’t cost more than the standard issue felt hat. The Christ’s College Cadet shooting team was photographed in 1914 wearing the peaked felt hat[2], and by 1915anotherschool cadet unit[3] was wearing felt hats with peaked crowns.While there is no other mention in the dress regulations of the Boy Scouts they were indeed a recognized unit of the junior cadets[4]. These units could be formed in lieu of a cadet unit at any school and were subject to the regulations of the junior cadet branch. With this official recognition came the free issue of uniforms and equipment to all units and corps.

Regulations for the Military Forces of the Dominion of New Zealand 1913,

printed 1914

Senior Cadets, Uniform, para 675. and para 718 of the 1911 provisional regulations.

Uniforms, arms, equipment and accoutrements of the authorized pattern will be issued free, under the conditions laid down in the N.Z. Equipment Regulations to Senior Cadets or to Boy Scouts enrolled in the Senior Cadets. This uniform is Government property.

By 1911 the Boy Scouts and Boy Scout Cadets were considered part of the senior cadets and the senior cadets were being supplied uniforms based on the Boy Scout pattern[5]. The only difference was the style of hat, the scarf and colours.According to an Evening Post article of 31^stMarch 1911 ‘….Boy Scout units have been recognized as an integral part of the senior cadet organization, they will be permitted to wear their own uniform, and will be entitled to have it provided for them by the State.’[6] This article goes on to say that the Boy Scouts will be provided with a Baden Powell hat, shirt and shorts but have to provide their own equipment.

Regulations (provisional) for the Military Forces of the Dominion of New Zealand 1911.

Section XV Senior Cadets Para 702:

Students at schools, or member of other recognized organization, such as the Boy Scouts, may be formed in distinct companies or half-companies according to their number. Companies or half-companies so formed will be an integral part of a school or other organization to which they belong, and will be subject its discipline.

In September 1912[7] the dress review order for the Territorial Force was revised to say that the felt hat was only to be worn as part of the full-dress uniform. An exception to this was allowed so that the felt hat could be worn for field work as protection from the sun.

The regulation hat for the Territorial Army was a felt hat with the crown creased fore and aft. The left brim was turned up and held up by a cord that attached to a badge with a hook. The hat was made from a grey felt with a high crown and narrow brim. However, as the Auckland Star reported in February 1913, for some Territorial’s the hat held little appeal, was too much like a civilian hat of the time and was not very soldierly in appearance. [8]

Territorial Notes
By Rifleman

Thus a keen territorial on headgear and art-. The slouch hat chosen by the defence authorities as the service headgear for all arms cannot be commended as either a becoming or a very solider-like article. The turned up side does not add to its beauty, notwithstanding the South African associations which cling to this way of wearing it. But further the official slouch hat is not made in the workmanlike khaki colour which one might expect but in an unpleasant dark grey shade, reminding one somewhat of the felts affected by gentlemen who have got past the prime of life. The strangely high crown and rather narrow brim give it quite a civilian look, which is not relieved by the heavy cloth puggaree with its garish stripes of different colours. Why could not the practical and sensible ‘Baden-Powell’ hat have been given a trial? Its stiff brim and pointed crown always give the wearer a smart and really soldier-like appearance and what does it matter that the boy scouts and the frontiersmen are already wearing it? A good thing is none the worse because lots of people use it. The aversion that a good many territorial’s have to the slouch hat is easily seen at any training camp, for most of them let down the left side and pinch the crown into a pyramid in the effort to make it as like the ‘Baden-Powell’ shape as possible.[9]

The regulation hat was generally disliked, and the peaked felt hat was clearly making an appearance in the Territorial’s. The training camps undertaken at the beginning of 1913 (the period covered in the article) were mainly Artillery camps. Photos of Artillery units at the Auckland Brigade camp in February 1913 show some of the soldiers wearing peaked felt hats.[10]Some field artillery units were wearing the peaked felt hat as far back as 1912[11] and it is likely that they got the idea from the mounted units of the South African war and the Legion of Frontiersmen, a mounted unit of some regard and social standing.It would seem that the Field Artillery had a history of independence when it came to head wear. A report in the Auckland Star of 13^th July 1916 observed “The fashion of wearing the slouch-hat without the “turn-up” appears to have been originated ten or twelve years ago by the New Zealand Field Artillery, who were prompted by a laudable desire to do things differently from the other arms”.

General Godley inspected the XI Regiment at their annual Territorial camp that was held at the Hawera racecourse between 17^th and 25^th April 1912. The Hawera Star news paper[12] reported that “The Regiment, clothed in the new uniform, wearing the slouch hats, as they stood with the arms to the slope, presented a smart and soldierly appearance…” (This is contrary to Furby’s claims that the Taranaki Regiment did not slope arms).

The XI Taranaki regiment produced a Christmas card in 1913[13] that shows the XI Taranaki regiment (mistakenly credited by Furby with introducing the peaked felt hat in 1911 as there were no Territorial annual camps in 1911) wearing the regulation fore and aft creased hat. The front of the card shows a Brigade size unit with Colonel Malone on horse back at the front. It is likely that this photo was taken at the Territorial training camp held at Oringi during 14^th to 26^thApril 1913. This camp was a brigade camp. The photo shows all ranks wearing the regulation felt hat with the fore and aft crease and turned up brim.

The peaked hat made a re-appearance during the divisional Territorial camp held at Takapu in May of 1914. Due to adverse weather conditions the shape of the crown was altered by a number of individuals from a number of different units.The Infantry, the Field Engineers, and the Divisional Signals Company can be seen wearing the felt hat with a peaked crown.[14] This practice seemed to be non-uniform within units and after the camp it is likely that a return to the regulation creased shape took place. There is no evidence to show that the shape of the crown was changed at this camp because of the demands made by rioting soldiers. There is also no evidence to suggest that the crown was formed into a peak to mirror the shape of Mt. Taranaki.

In May 1914[15] the Auckland Star reported that the slouch hat was to be slightly modified. Alterations made to the felt hat were a narrower softer brim that was to remain flat. These alterations made the lions head hook and regimental hook badges obsolete. The regimental badge was now to be worn on the front of the hat.

Mobilization

It was during WW1, however, that the peaked felt hat was to become an icon in the New Zealand Military Force and especially the New Zealand Expeditionary Force.  It was not until August 1914 that the Wellington Infantry Regiment adopted the peaked felt hat. This is said to have came about as a product of the hats worn by the Canadians in the Boer war and a dislike of the current issue felt hat. Colonel Malone, Major Hart and Mr. James Henry Naylor[16], from Masterton, met at the commercial rooms of the Club Hotel in Palmerston North. War had broken out and Colonel Malone was about to go overseas with the main body. Talk turned to uniforms and the dislike of the current felt hat, to which Hart agreed with Malone. Naylor, a fan of the Canadian style hat since his service in the Boer War, suggested they try the Canadian style. A demonstration was shown and both Malone and Hart liked the style, so it was adopted by Colonel Malone for the [Wellington Infantry Regiment] main body.[17] So why change? The experiences and memories of the bad weather at the recent Takapu Territorial camp and the destination of the main body could all have contributed to the functional need of a peaked crown. The main body was about to leave for training in England and then active service in France (the main body was only diverted to Egypt mid voyage). The weather in England can be said to be wetter and more persistent than in New Zealand.

It is doubtful that the peaked felt hat made a unit wide appearance in the infantry before August 1914. Both Hart and Malone were lawyers, officers and men of standing in the community. They knew they had to follow the rules and regulations of the New Zealand Military Forces,even though Malone and Hart already knew and had experienced the benefits of a peaked felt hat. The newly formed 17^th Ruahine regiment was still young and establishing itself to worry about challenging the authorities on the matter of headdress. If Hart did introduce the peaked felt hat to the Ruahine Regiment, as he claims, this is a departure from the 1912 Dress Regulations and would have needed approval from the military authorities. If the Ruahine Regiment did introduce the hat because they were a new regiment and had no distinctions or traditions (unlike the other regiments of the brigade who had traditions and history that could be traced back to the NZ Wars), this new design of uniform would have been considered a dress distinction and would have been ‘claimed’ by the 17^th Ruahine Regiment.  There are no Army Orders or General Orders known to support this.For a new style of headwear to be introduced (without authority) would have gone against the intention of the newly created military force and the Defence act of December 1909; one force, one set of regulations and one uniform for all units across the whole of the Dominion.

The Wellington area concentration camp was at Awapuni. The Wellington Infantry Battalion, the Wellington Mounted Rifles, the NZ Field Artillery and other mostly horse borne units held a parade on 24^th August 1914 for General Godley and the public. A photo[18] of the event shows the Infantry section parading in peaked felt hats, and this may have been the first public outing of the Wellington Infantry Battalion and their new headdress. It would seam that Malone and Hart used the social upheaval of the pre-embarkation period to instigate the change of hat style across the whole Regiment, where there was strength in numbers and a high public profile. Another photo[19] from Awapuni, taken during the Main body assembling period, (August to September 1914), shows tent mates of the Divisional Ammunition Colum, NZFA wearing peaked felt hats.

Major Waite, in his official history of Gallipoli talks about the mobilization efforts taking place though-out New Zealand. Waite noted that the Otago Mounted Rifles, the New Zealand Field Artillery and the Wellington Infantry Battalion were wearing their hats peaked with four dents[20]. Photographic evidence also shows the New Zealand Army Service Corp wearing peaked felt hats on embarkation from New Zealand in 1914. Photos in the Auckland Weekly News[21] for December 1914 show that the peaked felt hat was in wide spread use by reinforcements at Trentham Camp. In 1916 the Trentham Camp routine orders issued a directive that said that in future the slouch hat was to be worn with one straight fold from the front to the rear and not in the “Baden Powell” style.[22]

By the time the Expeditionary force arrived in Egypt, the peaked felt hat was making a wider appearance invarious units and was also being worn individually within units. It was a common sight in Egypt[23]. The felt hat was officially to be worn in full dress for ceremonial parades, and as such was not intended to be the hat worn when units landed on the Gallipoli peninsular.

For this they wore the service dress forage cap. The felt hat soon made an appearance in the front line and was a practical hat for the conditions. An official history[24] stated that the forage cap was ‘replaced either by Australian felts, khaki sun helmets, or the New Zealand issue [felt hat] belonging to unfortunate members of the reinforcement drafts’.

In September 1916, the felt hat with a peaked crown was officially accepted as the headdress of the New Zealand Expeditionary Force. The felt hat was now to be worn with the brim horizontal and the crown peaked[25]. This excluded the Mounted Brigade who continued to wear the felt hat with the crease fore and aft and the brim horizontal, but the Otago Mounted rifles serving in France wore the peaked felt hat. So why the change, the peaked crown was easily recognizable as being distinctly different from the shape of the Australian Imperial Forces felt hat and was also functional suited for the wet weather of a European Winter.

As if to come full circle, an Australian news paper, in 1941, captioned a photo[26]“The men with the boy scout hats”, New Zealand Artillery men in action.

Summary

The peaked felt hat has been around for a long time in New Zealand and was influenced by hats from other counties. There is no doubt that the felt hat with a peaked crown has become an iconic symbol of New Zealand and the New Zealand Army in general and that it is now a part of our cultural identity.

So, when was the peaked felt hat officially recognized as an item of issue within the New Zealand Military Forces? The first official mention of a peaked type felt hat in relation to the New Zealand Military forces is in the Senior Cadet section of the 1912 New Zealand dress regulations. While this could apply to the senior cadets, the Boy Scout cadet units were a recognized and integral part of the senior cadets. Their head dress was the Baden Powell hat and in 1911 they were the first New Zealand Military unit to officially wear a felt hat with a peaked crown.

Who made it famous and why? The first Infantry unit to wear the peaked felt hat was the Wellington Infantry Battalion in August 1914. The charismatic nature of their commanding officer Lieutenant Colonel William Malone and the deeds and sacrifice of his battalion on Chunuk Bair and Gallipoli has laid the foundation for New Zealand folklore and the felt hat with a peaked crown.

Barry O’Sullivan

Originally published May 2013 – Updated January 2016

Editor’s Notes: Our thanks to Barry O’Sullivan for sharing this detailed history of the most famous cap worn by the soldiers of New Zealand.

 

Acknowledgements

The National Library of New Zealand, Papers Past website.

The National Library of New Zealand, Time Frames website.

New Zealand Defence Library, Wellington.

Auckland City Library, Heritage Images website.

 

Appendix

News paper article, The Auckland Star 4^th June 1942

News paper article, The Auckland Star 6^th June 1942

 

[1] Newspaper article ‘Lemon Squeezer’. The Auckland Star 6^th June 1942

[2] Photo, Christ’s College Archive. ChristchurchNew Zealand

[3] National Library photos, 1/1-012543-G and ½-000425-G

[4] Newspaper article ‘New Regulations’ The Evening Post, 19^th March 1910

[5] Newspaper article Otago Daily Times, 4^th March 1911

[6] Newspaper article, The Defence forces, The Evening Post, 31^st March 1911

[7]Marlbough Express, 18^th September 1912

[8] Newspaper article, Territorial Notes, The Auckland Star, 20^th February 1913

[9] Newspaper article, Territorial Notes, The Auckland Star, 20^th February 1913

[10] Photo supplement, Auckland Weekly News, 20^th February 1913, Auckland City Library, AWNS-19130220-13

[11] Author’s note, Photograph in a photo album in an antique shop, Photo noted “Territorial’s 1912”

[12] Hawera Star, 24^th April 1912

[13] XI Taranaki regiment Christmas card, December 1913, private collection. (With a hand notation “The only Rifle Reg. in N.Z.”

[14] Newspaper Photos, The Free Lance, 9^th May 1914

[15] Evening Star, 13^th May 1914

[16] Honorary Lieutenant and Quartermaster of the 17^th Ruahine Regiment, with effect 11/02/1916.

[17] Newspaper article, Lemon Squeezer, The Auckland Star, 6^th June 1942

[18] Photo, private collection, titled General’s inspection, Expeditionary http://www.flickr.com/photos/cle0patra/11868093243/

[19] Photo, private collection, http://dearelsie.wordpress.com/2014/01/14/postcard-72

[20] The Zealanders at Gallipoli, Major Waite, DSO. , page 6 [confirmation is still needed to verify the OMR use]

[21] Photo Supplement, Auckland Weekly News, 10^th  and 17^th December 1914, AucklandCity Library

AWNS-19141210-37-5 and AWNS-19141217-43-2

[22] The PovertyBay Herald, 6^th April 1916

[23] Newspaper Article, Australian Correspondent for the Melbourne Age, 1^st January 1915 and Copied in the Dominion Newspaper 24^th February 1915.

[24] Official History, The Auckland Regiment, 1922, by O.E. Burton, page 49.

[25] NZEF order 135, 7^th September 1916

[26] The Mercury, Hobart Tasmania, page 9, 2^nd December 1941.

[1] New Zealand Gazette, No. 47 page 728, June 1891

[2] Supplement to the New Zealand Gazette of Thursday 8^th February 1906. page 468