Figure 1. The crest of Christys’ of London; they have been producing hats for almost two and a half centuries. Underneath the Christys crest on this silk label is the name of the Canadian shop where this helmet was sold, Thorne Brothers occupied that address between 1880 and 1909 3. Behind the sticker can be seen the sheets of pith used to construct this helmet.
Christys’ & Co Ltd, established in 1773, are well known hatters who are still producing quality hats to this day. At the end of the 19th century they were the world’s largest headwear manufacturer. They have always been famous for producing best quality products, supplying Royalty since King George III’s reign, entitling them to use the royal crest on their logo. They are perhaps most famous for designing the Custodian helmet for the British police in 1863.
Figure 2. The Christys’ profile shows a typical 1800s Colonial Pattern sun helmet shape with steep pitched rim with extended rear, in this case rounded. The six panel outer cover is typically British. Note lack of top button.
The Christys’ sun helmet design seen here is thought to have been produced in the late 1800s to compete in the growing ‘Colonial Pattern’ sun helmet market. Being produced by Christys it was probably considered of better quality than most. Unlike the government issued cork helmets the shell of this commercial one is made of traditional pith, it is over a centimeter thick (a little less than half an inch), but is very light and hence well insulated. To the modern eye and touch, its look, feel and weight are very reminiscent of polystyrene (Styrofoam). Its excellent insulation properties combined with very light weight is why pith was used in the original traditional Bengali sun helmets of the early 1800s.
Pith is only found in the tropics and is quite fragile; this led to temperate region manufacturers using more locally sourced and more durable materials, especially for military helmets where cork was preferred due to the rough handling they were expected to get. By weight however, these alternative materials were less insulating than pith.
Figure 3. Left, the shell is more than a centimeter thick, made up of layers of pith. It does not have a rim as such and the edge thickness shown here is that of the entire shell. Right, an interesting and unusual fine detail is that the spacers were given a cloth covering.
Christys sun-helmets are said to have been offered for sale throughout the colonies, but especially in India, to military men and civilians alike, as a traditional ‘pith’ helmet, rather than the alternative materials then being introduced. The lack of a chin strap probably indicates this was a civilian version.
Figure 4. Left, it appears to have never had a pugaree or chinstrap, so this is probably a civilian example; however a strap etc could easily be added for the military buyer. At right can be seen the typical sun helmet headband of the period, with cork spacers, covered with a fine green cloth as a touch of refinement, allowing air to flow around the dome. It is interesting to note that the spacers follow the military versions in that they are only on the sides and not at front and back.
It appears to have a multi layered pith construction building up its bulky but light shell, with typical British six panel khaki outer cover, a fine weave cloth rather than the common thicker cotton twill. It has a green cotton lining to the underside of the brim and the cork spacers are similarly lined; but it has an exposed natural pith inner dome. The leather sweatband is embossed with the Christys’ logo and it has a hidden adjustable draw string along its upper edge. The eight cork spacers are along the sides only, allowing airflow into the dome.
The vent is made of brass sheet, with eight flat spokes, there appears to have never been a threaded hole, or bayonet fitting for the attachment of a button or spike. This may indicate it is an early model as other early ‘colonial pattern’ helmets which developed from Ellwood and Son’s initial ‘Air Chamber/Air Pipe’ helmet also did not have a cover over their new apical vent.
From the early 1860s Ellwood and sons started to warn of ‘imitations’ on their advertising and in June 1864 tried to sue Christys for copyright infringement. Is this model one of the culprits?
Figure 5. Left, the apical vent is of pressed brass painted brown, there is no provision for the attachment of a cover, button or spike etc. This may indicate it is an early model of the ‘Colonial Pattern’. Right, The inside of the dome showing the stamped brass sheet vent in its apex, held by out-splayed legs. The dome is not lined, but exposes the natural pith construction as a feature.
Figure 6. Left, The sales sticker with size, model description and price. The end of the ‘hidden’ draw string can be seen. Right, the Christys’ logo embossed into the sweatband.
Although meant primarily for the Indian market this particular example was sold by Thorne Bros, 93 King Street, Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada, or just above 45 degrees north. Thorne Brothers occupied that address between 1880 and 1909 1. The New Brunswick museum has evidence that Thorne Bros. was in existence from at least 1870 (they have a labeled top hat of that date), but the whereabouts of their premises at that time is not known. The Great Fire of Saint John occurred in June 1877 after which Thorne Bros. re-established at 93 King Street, on the left side going uphill between Germain and Charlotte Streets. They were family Hatters and Furriers, providing products to men, women and children. The fact that it has a quality silk label, printed with both Christys’ and Thorne Bros. logos, may indicate they had some form of manufacturer/retailer arrangement.
The helmet still has an original paper label attached. It is a size 6 3/4, with a shape identifier of (a large flourished pair of letters?) then 114, and the words ‘No.2 Lustre’ is hand written in one box. This may refer to an original lustrous finish exhibited by the fine weave outer cover. On the left hand side of the label are the figures (?) 3(?) and 25, this is probably the price in Canadian dollars: $3.25, which seems about right for a good quality hat during the last few decades of the 1800s.
Saint John was an important international port in the late 1800s and early 1900s, with a constant cycle of imported and exported goods, and arriving and departing passengers moving through the town. The Saint John Rifle Company was formed in 1862 and the 62nd Saint John Battalion was formed in 1872, and re-designated the Saint John Fusiliers in 1882, who later contributed a significant number of men to the Boer War. All these factors may help explain the existence of a trade in sun helmets in this temperate latitude town.
Figure 7. King Street, Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada, ~1900. A thriving trade center and port, home to nationally renowned army units. Note that everyone has a hat, the wagon drivers appear to be wearing plumed helmets.
Figure 8. The Victoria Hotel, 83-89 King Street. Number 93, is probably seen at extreme right.
Figure 9. In the same street, the hat department, at Manchester Robertson Allison Ltd, King Street, 15th April 1910. At the time it was almost obligatory to wear a hat, hence the choice and volume.
Although this example is a private purchase item, and probably used by a civilian, British made Colonial Pattern Helmets were in use by the Canadian Army during this period. Images of the ‘Voyageurs’, the Canadian contingent of boatmen who conveyed the British down the Nile 1884, show them wearing the style. At this time, and later, enlisted men and NCOs were issued with Government procured helmets, officers had to buy their own, as such there were many manufacturers producing slightly different versions of the type to compete in that market.
Figure 10. Militia on Barracks Square, Saint John, New Brunswick, in 1911. The unit in foreground is wearing white ‘Foreign Service’ or locally ‘Universal Pattern’ helmets, a government issue ‘colonial’ pattern helmet.
Peter Suciu mentions the names of half a dozen of these private purchase manufactures in his ‘Military Sun Helmets of the World’; it appears Christys & Co Ltd, the largest hatter in the world at the time, was another.
Steve Saunders,
June 2018
Rabaul, PNG,
References
- http://thelostvalley.blogspot.com/ In discussion with Ron Jack.
- In discussion with Gary Hughes, Curator, History and Technology, New Brunswick Museum.
A very well written and informative article, Steve.
I must be quite careful that such articles don’t spark an urge to start collecting military sun helmets.
Regards
Brian